Why the ‘Hawaii of the North’ won’t stay sheltered forever
“Oh aye, it’s beautiful!” Please excuse such colloquialisms, but what better way to describe the Isle of Tiree than to use the Lodge Hotel (see view from the beer garden above) landlord’s own turn of phrase? Looking at the photo, I’m sure you’d agree.
Part of Scotland’s Inner Hebrides, the Hawaii of the North really does have a character all of its own. It’s no surprise then, that the days where it was overshadowed by the likes of Skye and Rum are disappearing.
First of all, let’s clear the nickname up. Tiree is in fact the breeziest part of the UK, which is why outdoor pursuits such as windsurfing are enjoyed so much here. Yet as it takes a direct hit from the Gulf Stream (next stop America) it can also lay claim to turquoise seas and white sandy beaches (on one side of the island at least).
Whilst that wind would make for a tricky game of golf, such extreme gusts are usually confined to evenings – there’s always a small price to pay for paradise, eh? Don’t for one minute let that stop you from partaking in the other activities on offer, which include fishing, kayaking and paddle boarding. Besides, another reason for the Hawaiian comparison is the fact that Tiree enjoys more sunshine than anywhere else in Britain.
Nature enthusiasts will have a field day. Nesting seabird colonies can be viewed, whilst safely on dry land one of the island’s star attractions is the elusive corncrake. This member of the rail family – once wiped out completely from the rest of Britain – is a regular spring/summer visitor. If you’re a fan of geese, the not-so-elusive greylag is a common sight; so common in fact, that the islanders tried a cull a few years back but without success. Still, they’re charming in their own way.
But it’s in the water where this place really comes into its own. Tiree Sea Tours offer ‘Seafaris’, where you can track various marine life, the star attraction being the second-largest fish in the world, the basking shark. July-September is the best time to catch a glimpse, although as with any animal sighting there are no guarantees. Once a year, a group of brave – some might say mad – locals get together and swim the 5km to Tiree from neighbouring Coll. The twist is, a boat ploughs alongside to keep them at a distance from the school of killer whales that are present at this time. I swear you could make a movie out of this place.
Want to keep fit during your stay? The island measures 12 miles long if you’re partial to a stroll, whilst e-cycles are available to hire from Tiree Fitness for a very reasonable charge. The latter also organises the annual 10k and half marathon, a huge event every May bank holiday weekend attracting many participants from the mainland and beyond. Will Wright, the brains behind these operations, plus an island resident for 14 years, said: “When I moved up here from Yorkshire I wondered what I was letting myself in for. The natural beauty stares you in the face but you still have doubts. I sometimes feel a bit silly for thinking that way all those years ago because everyone’s so welcoming here. I don’t regret a minute and I can genuinely call Tiree ‘home’.”
Yours truly has even taken part (the 10k I hasten to add) and what really struck me were the people. You get cheered on around every corner, which is especially uplifting if you feel yourself flagging at some stage. The residents’ warmth doesn’t end there, as they’re often known to put up visitors whenever there’s a big event on. One year during the island’s annual Folk Festival – at which the likes of The Fratellis have played – the place was literally a washout, with tents afloat leaving many in a bit of a pickle, but not a single person went without a bed for the night. Yes, the crime rate is zero, but still…
So how to get here? From the wonderful coastal town of Oban (and it really is wonderful, but that’s another article for another time) you can get a Caledonian MacBrayne ferry, or ‘Calmac’ for short (the best ferry company you’ll ever sail with (yet another one for another time), available several times a day. If you don’t fancy sailing, you can always catch a flight, as Tiree does in fact have its own airport – albeit an extremely small one – and is connected to Glasgow.
There’s plenty more selling points; a wonderful gift shop by the name of Chocolates and Charms, where you’ll find unique handmade souvenirs of your trip, for one. But whilst it’s unlikely that the Scottish Tourism Board would consider “It’s beautiful!” as a possible advertising slogan for Tiree, you know where you heard it first if they do.
The Early Whistle 