Getting greedy in “The Fat One”
Is fondue really better than ghoulash, as a placard at the recent Euro ’24 match between Hungary and Switzerland proudly claimed? A matter of opinion, surely, but one culinary issue that’s certainly not up for debate is that Bologna is the food capital of the world. “Il Grasso” (we’ll go with the altogether more pleasant, native translation of “The Fat One”).
Food is literally everywhere, and no less than 100% of the time it’s damn good. But more on that later, because there’s much more to this North Italian city than grub alone, as its two other nicknames suggest.
The first of those might suggest why I was greeted with a Middle-East conflict demo as soon as I alighted the seven-hour train journey from Calabria. Still, Italian trains being as luxurious as they are, it was no bother. However, in line with Early Whistle policy, that’s as much about politics as we’ll cover here. The second name? This city happens to be home to Europe’s oldest university, with numerous campuses scattered around town that you’re free to go and visit – short of attending lectures, of course.
A rite of passage for Bolognese students is walking the four kilometres from the outside the city centre to the Santuario Madonna Di San Luca, or the Sanctuary of San Luca. What’s so special about that, you might ask, especially for such bright young things? The second half is steep, very steep. Scenic that’s for sure, but steep all the same. Many students have made a personal pact that if they brave the journey then they’ll pass their upcoming exam with flying colours. Seems fair, especially when you’re confronted with what’s at the summit.
Once you’ve conquered the world’s longest portico – with 600 arches – you’re treated to a magnificent cathedral with world-class views. If walking isn’t for you, take the San Luca Express, a charming little train that’s a mere six euros one-way. You’ll see people running this route, as well as cycling up and down the adjacent road – perfect for burning off Bologna’s unavoidable calories!
There’s an indescribable vibe about this place. Could it be because the football team’s just reached the Champions League for the first time in its history? Unlikely. If Bologna’s passion for football rivalled its love of food, they’d have won the tournament ten times by now. Being the namesake of bolognese (but no spaghetti here), it’s naturally the spiritual home of many typical Italian dishes, yet those mountains of morsels besides.
To be honest, you could spend years talking about the culinary scene here, so to try and do it some justice here’s a special mention for Via Pescherie Vecchie. This street is where it’s at if you want an authentic slice of Bologna, as it’s dedicated to eating and eating only. Whether you’re after a light platter of cheese, meats and bread, the full three courses, or some proper Italian produce to take home, it’s got you covered.
But there’s also a feast for the eyes because Bologna is just so damn pretty. Terracotta porticos, the city’s trademark (the essence of which has hopefully been captured in the main photo), adorn every street, whilst the piazzas play host to street performers and gatherings of people from all walks of life just happy to be here. And you’re happy to be there, too, feeling like a local within just five minutes of being there; something else you just can’t put your finger on, that you just have to be there to appreciate.
Maybe that’s it. Unlike Florence, Milan and Rome, there’s no need to visit this landmark and that attraction to make Bologna worthwhile – you just need to turn up to get in the spirit. Yes, I got greedy in Bologna, and yes, I’m hungry for more. Bring on the Champions League!
The Early Whistle 
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